Brief background on Monteverde, Costa Rica

Monteverde is located along the continental divide in north central Costa Rica. Famous for its rich biodiversity and cloud forest, Monteverde is a popular location for both biologists and tourists. You may have heard of the disappearance of the golden toad that was once found in the forests, or the Resplendent Quetzal (Pharomachrus mocinno), which still nests here.

At approximately 1500 meters above sea level the climate is cooler compared to the low lands of Costa Rica. There are two seasons in this part of the world, the rainy season and the dry season. There names say it all. The rainy season is from May to the end of October. The climate like the flora and fauna is very diverse in Costa Rica and depends on many factors such as solar radiation and the complex topographical relief of the land. Then there exist phenomenon like El Niño to further complicate things. With such complicated climate, meteorology is not a fine art in Costa Rica. Suffice to say that in the rainy season it rains about 100 inches and in the dry season (particularly Jan - Apr) there is practically no rain.

In Monteverde there is very often a light mist blowing in with the trade winds from the west. This is one of the ingredients in a cloud forest where many plants are arboreal not terrestrial. Such plants depend on a high humidity or mist of precipitation for the nutrients and moisture they carry.

One thing people always talk about in Monteverde is the road. The roads are made of dirt and resemble the face of the moon with all of their holes and carters. In the rainy season the roads are thick with mud and in the dry season they have a 2-inch cap of fine dust on them that permeates your clothes and lungs. All the roads that lead to Monteverde, be it from the Pan - American highway or from Tilaran consist of dirt and rock. A 4x4 vehicle is strongly recommended for both seasons as the higher clearance and the traction can be essential.

There is controversy surrounding the decisions to pave the road. A minority of people, mostly living in what is actually Monteverde, some of them Quakers oppose the paving of the roads for a number of valid reasons. Part of the reason being the influx of people it could bring and all of the associated problems that come with large numbers of people, pollution, social problems, etc. Some people would like to see Monteverde stay the same. It is hard to stand in the way of "Progress" and a bill was signed to pave parts of the road. That was 2 years ago and so far there is no pavement and people are not holding their breath. Things can be a slow process with the Costa Rican government. 


Click here to view a map of the Monteverde area.

While Monteverde is technically the last 3.5 kilometers of the road before the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, people often refer to the whole area as Monteverde while in fact there are 3 separate if somewhat vaguely divided "villages": Monteverde, Cerro Plano and Santa Elena. 

The main commercial center is Santa Elena. There you will find the bank, supermarket, post, clinic and police. Cerro Plano is a plateau situated on the road between Monteverde and Santa Elena. Cerro Plano is home to the Ecological Farm and Butterfly Garden. After Cerro Plano is Monteverde where you will find Stella's Bakery and the Quaker meeting house and school. Monteverde is mostly made up of a few large hotels and private homes. The road stops at the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. 

In 1951 a group of Quakers (members of the Religious Society of Friends) objecting to the draft emigrated from the United States to Costa Rica and settled in what was to be Monteverde. Part of the Quaker faith is the belief that there is an inner light in everyone and that this inner light is in essence a piece of God. Most Quakers consider themselves pacifists. The Quakers founded the Cheese Factory, the Friends School and in an attempt to protect the areas watershed purchased much of the land that now makes up the Monteverde Reserve. The Quakers have played a major role in the development of the community and this is one of the things that make Monteverde a special place.

"If we give you a rifle
will you fight for the Lord?
But you can't kill the Devil
with a gun or a sword."

If you're expecting to see people wearing funny hats driving horse drawn wagons you will be disappointed. Most current day Quakers do not look like they do on the Quaker Oats T box and have not since the 1600's. Many people confuse the Quakers with the Amish. Some of the children of the original settlers have integrated into the community and married while others have returned to the United States.

The Quakers of Monteverde practice un-programmed, silent meetings. Worship consists of an hour of meditation where participants try to listen to the (Holy) Spirit, until someone is moved by the Spirit to speak. There is no minister or preacher. Services are Wednesday and Sunday at the Quaker meetinghouse and are open to the public.


For more information on the Society of Friends visit http://www.quaker.org/.  There is also a very interesting book entitled Monteverde Jubilee Family Album, available from Monteverde's bookstore Chunches S.A.

In the last 50 years Monteverde has grown into a popular destination for tourists. With the increase in visitors things have begun to change and many people are wondering what is in store. In 2001 Monteverde received some million tourists. Some projections believe we will receive twice that many by the year 2010. These and other issues such as the project to pave the roads raise concern as to Monteverde's future. Some work has been done in plans for sustainable development but there is still much more to be done.

Part of the problem has been a divide or autonomy between Monteverde (many Tico - North Americans, lots of money and some potentially useful resources like the Monteverde Institute) and Cerro Plano / Santa Elena (majority of Tico inhabitants and where most of the people in the vicinity live). In the last couple of years some activities and a general increase in the areas population have brought more of a union to the zones. Just recently the area of Monteverde became a municipality and held elections. The effects of which are still to be felt.

I would strongly recommend that people visiting the country spend a couple of days here to experience the stunning natural beauty as well as the unique and peaceful atmosphere that is Monteverde.