"To Ride or Not to Ride?"

   A look at horseback riding from Monteverde to the Arenal Volcano

     An article by Janet Ellis

As a traveler, it is easy to grow attached to your guidebook, with its seemingly endless fountain of information. But as you consult it at every fork in the road, keep in mind that guidebooks get outdated and can be misinformed. I am going to attempt to clarify and be objective on one of the most pleasurable trips I have undertaken in Costa Rica. There are many myths and untruths branded about this particular tour. 

   Your guidebook may simply say it's dangerous and unwise to ride between Monteverde and La Fortuna in the rainy season. This is true of the main trails that go down the Mountain (Castillo and Chiquito), but what it doesn't mention is that there are ALTERNATIVE, safe and beautiful trails. Your guidebook may also mention that all the horses are skinny and not cared for. This is a case of "tarring all companies with one brush". There are a few, although I have to be honest and say, not many, conscientious companies that truly love their horses and take great care in maintaining them, and look after the trails as well. The horse tour from Monteverde to La Fortuna is an incredible experience that should not be missed. It is important, as a traveler, to do your own research, ask your own questions, and get the information firsthand. These steps will insure your satisfaction with any tour you choose to do. 

   Nearly all the guidebook writers that I have come across are simply not given the time to research their books properly. They make a valiant effort, but information changes so rapidly it is hard for them to be 100% accurate. Unfortunately, this lack in accuracy can have irreparable results. Many people's livelihoods depend on horse tours and they suffer when they are misrepresented. How can guidebooks possibly comment on a horse trip they have never done, or may have done many years ago? How can they advise people not to do a trip without even being aware or clarifying there are a few different trails to do and just refer to one dangerous trail? And finally, how can they say they "can't recommend any companies" when they haven't tried all or any of them for years? There are good and bad companies in all businesses, and companies can change - some tour operators have been around for many years and have learnt by their mistakes - new management, new policies and new ideas have changed them beyond recognition. Guidebooks have to acknowledge that tourism is relatively new in many parts of Costa Rica and many tours have been vastly improved. To better inform you, the three main trails from Monteverde to La Fortuna are outlined below:

The 3 main routes:

• Trail 1 - "The Lake Trail"

Safe Anytime of Year!

Along Arenal Lake From the Rio Chiquito  to the

Caño Negro River (Near El Castillo) or Vice Versa.

Times:   Santa Elena to Rio Chiquito:           1½ hours by taxi  

Around Arenal Lake:                      2 ¾ hours by horse and ½ hour break

                 Boat Ride Across Arenal Lake:      10 minutes

                 Boat drop off point to Fortuna:     25 minutes by taxi.      

                Total time:  5 hours 20 minutes

Advantages:  Very pretty lakeside route with good safe trails in ALL weather, many tropical birds, views of the volcano and scenic jungle parts.  Suitable for all levels of riders.

Disadvantages:  Long initial (or end) taxi ride and not as "adventurous" as the other trails.

• Trail 2 - "Castillo" Trail

Safe only from mid-Feb until early May (sometimes only until mid April)

The Monteverde to El Castillo (on Arenal Lake) or vice versa.

Time:      Santa Elena to San Gerardo:         30 minutes by taxi

                 San Gerardo to Arenal Lake:       3 hours by horse and ½ hour break

                 Boat Ride Across Arenal Lake:    15 minutes

                 Boat drop off point to Fortuna :   25 minutes by taxi.      

                 TOTAL:   4 hours 40 minutes

Advantages: Shortest route, spectacular jungle and mountain scenery, variety of landscapes, views of the volcano, river crossings. Lots of adventure!

Disadvantages: Dangerous and hard on the horses during the rainy season and the semi-rainy season. The trail is only good mid-February to early May. Little wildlife seen. It can be scary for nervous or first time riders.

• Trail 3 -  "Rio Chiquito"

Safe For part of the year depending on rainfall.

The Monteverde to Rio Chiquito (Near Lake Arenal)

Times:   Santa Elena to San Gerardo:           30 minutes by taxi

                San Gerardo to Rio Chiquito:         3½ hours by horse and ½ hour break

                Taxi to Arenal Lake:                    10 minutes (plus 10 minute break)

                Boat Ride Across Arenal Lake:     25 minutes

                Boat drop off point  to Fortuna:   25 minutes by taxi.      

                TOTAL:   5 hours 40 minutes

Advantages:  Very pretty adventurous mountain route, wonderful views of hills and farmland, volcano and lake views.

Disadvantages: Length of time on horse (of course this can be advantage to some!), can be muddy and scary on parts of the route near the start of the descent, exposed route in bad weather, very little wildlife.  

   So which trail do you choose? Unless you have a deep desire for you and your horse to become one with the mud, do not choose the San Gerardo route in the rainy or green seasons. The mud is very bad and the horses at times are nearly chest deep in mud. Many horses have slipped over in the past and this can be very scary. The trail is only good mid-Feb to mid-May. 

   During the rainy season the other two are good alternatives, and your choice depends on how long you want to spend on the horse, whether you want a mountain or lake route, and your level of experience. Both are very pretty and the lake ride in particular is suitable for all levels of riders.

   A question many a tourist might ask is why do some companies continue to run the San Gerardo route even though it's dangerous? The simple answer is money. It is operationally much cheaper to run the Mirador route, and therefore more profitable for the tour company. Higher commissions can be offered to hotel staff and street sellers of the two muddy trails, who may not have the tourists' or the horses' best interests at heart.

   My advice to tourists is to check out the outfitter carefully by asking questions. Don't always head for the cheapest price. Some companies save money by using cheaper but dangerous routes, cutting down medicines and food for the horses or overusing their packhorses. Remember you get what you pay for! Find out which trails companies use and when. Find out if the company has horse rotation lists, which enables you to tell how often the horses work. Are vet reports undertaken regularly? Does the company have offices on both sides of the trip so that they are accountable if anything goes wrong? Are you offered horses to your level of experience - does anyone even ask? If your luggage is to be transferred do they have a place to store it on the other side or will it be dumped in some unknown office that you'll spend the next day searching for?